Roof penetrations and flashing: what keeps a Tampa solar roof dry
Almost every solar leak is a flashing decision, not a panel problem. Here's how attachments should be built on Tampa shingle, tile and metal roofs.
A solar array puts dozens of holes in a roof that was working fine. Whether that matters comes down entirely to how each one is flashed.
Shingle roofs
The correct detail is a metal flashing plate slid under the course above the penetration, with the mount sealed to the plate. Sealant alone under a bracket is not a flashing detail — it is a countdown. In Tampa's UV and heat, exposed sealant fails in a handful of years.
Tile roofs
Barrel and flat tile need either a replacement flashing pan (a metal tile that carries the mount) or a properly flashed hook. Tile is brittle; expect a few breaks and expect them replaced, not glued. Foot traffic paths should be planned before the crew is on the roof.
Standing seam metal
The best case in the whole category: seam clamps attach to the rib with no penetration at all. If someone is drilling a standing seam roof for solar, ask why.
What to look for afterwards
- Flashing visibly tucked under the upslope course, not sitting on top
- No large blobs of sealant doing structural work
- Attachments landing on rafters, not just decking
- Conduit supported off the roof surface, not resting on shingles
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Talk it through with a Tampa crew
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